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Cloudbreak: Perfect Wave

June 24, 2012

This is the wave every surfer draws in school.  Though I didn’t get to surf this beast, I did get to watch some surfers get the barrels of their lives.  It was only 6-9 feet that day, with a few bigger sets rolling through.  I was a bit nervous on the boat ride out, wanting to see it but also wanting to surf it.  After a few minutes watching it, I wanted in on the action.

Unfortunately, the boats we used to get out there were given to the the villagers by the Tavarua island resort, and part of their agreement is that they’re not allowed to bring surfers to the waves off Tavarua.  So I surfed Namotu instead, which was big but had onshore winds and a strong current that kept pulling me inside.  I basically paddled and ducked under overhead sets for an hour and got one pathetic ride out of it.  Still, even to surf these waters poorly is a treat.  Maybe I’ll get another shot before I leave…


Cloudbreak in its Majesty.


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